Beyond Buruwisan: Undiscovered Falls of Siniloan, Laguna

Laguna has been tagged as the Waterfall Capital of the Philippines due to numerous waterfalls that can be found in the province. Many of these have received special attention recently - Pagsanjan Falls, Majayjay Falls, Hulugan Falls, Buruwisan Falls to name a few.

Far more than these famous waterfalls of Laguna, there are hundred of untouched and undiscovered falls that are yet to be explored. This is an account of our trip to the less known falls in Siniloan, Laguna.

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Since it was summer and also as a part of my birthday celebration, I invited my friends to go visit some waterfalls in Laguna. We weren't sure though on what falls to visit and being shocked by the impact of sudden flock of people in Hulugan Falls, we searched for those that are less visited, until we came across this post on the falls of Siniloan beyond Mt. Romelo and Buruwisan Falls. Without any hesitation, we decided to explore and take a look on these waterfalls.

I met my friends at 7-11 Quiapo and went to Raymond's bus terminal in Legarda. We took the first bus trip bound to Infanta, Quezon at around 2 AM and asked the driver to drop us off at Kilometer 19 Trekker Station. It was a three hour trip and interesting enough, the bus traverses the province of Quezon, Rizal and Laguna multiple times. There are stopovers in Pililia and Siniloan where you can buy foods and take refreshments.

After three hours, we reached the Trekker Station.

That little signage indicating you're on the right location. Trekker's Station.

Since this area is relatively less publicized, only a few hikers know this place. During our hike, we are the first group to arrive. The registration and guide assignment is done in the Trekker Station. We were welcomed by Nanay Gloria (if I'm not mistaken). According to her, the entire mountainous range of Siniloan is protected by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and is supervised by the College of Forestry and Natural Resources of UP Los Baños. She told us that it is still suspected that several waterfalls exist in the area and until now, explorations are still conducted. Knowing that we are engineers, she shared a lot of things and insights as apparently, she has been one of the pioneer consultants of mining companies here in the Philippines. No wonder why one will see several books in the registration booth.

My buddies for this hike - Ivy and Louie. You prolly have seen them lol.

The guide fee depends on the number of falls that will be visited. Our original plan is to visit four falls - Hagdang Bato, Tulay na Bato, Asul na Talon and Kalawang Falls, but Nanay Gloria told us that Kalawang Falls is closed due to ownership jurisdiction issues. However, she suggested to replace it with Kabagan Falls, a relatively newly discovered falls in the area. We adhered to it and after assigning us guides, we headed our way to the trail jumpoff. The trail jumpoff is a few kilometers away and one should take a jeepney to get from there.

With Nanay Gloria and the guides before going to the trail jumpoff.

The usual sequence in visiting these falls is as follows - Asul na Talon, Kabagan Falls, Hagdang Bato Falls and lastly, Tulay na Bato Falls. The trail actually ends on the registration booth so one can try doing the reverse. The first part of the trail is relatively easy and flat.

The first part of the trail is relatively grassy and rocky.

After crossing a cemented bridge, the trail gradually shifts. One should be prepared to river crossings as there are really several river crossings on the entire trail; hence, one should also expect that the trail is muddy and slippery. There are also moments where you will actually traverse the river, either on the shoulders or river itself, to go to your destination.

The blogger with Baymax on the trail. Muddy and slippery, isn't it?

We first reached an unnamed waterfalls after an hour of hiking. The locals did not consider it as a fall since this is more of an elevation drop in the river topography, as I would say. The height of the fall is only around three meters. Nevertheless, we gave this falls a name - Baymax Falls - in honor of Baymax. Hahaha!

A waterfall or not? 

From here, Asul na Talon can be reached in less than twenty minutes.

Baymax posing at Asul na Talon Falls.

The falls isn't blue at all, but the falls got its name because of a certain basin where its water flows.

The basin that gave that falls its name. You can really see how blue the water appears.

It might not be that obvious in this photo but the water in this basin really reflects a blue color. According to our guide, the reason why the water in this basin appears blue is that the basin is really really deep. He also told us that the depth of the basin is still unknown at this time and even though there were multiple attempts to determine it, all of them are unsuccessful.

It is in this falls also when we had our first encounter with limatik (leech).

Didn't expect that this trail will be this bloody. Blood from a limatik bite.

We weren't oriented that much that limatik are present in the entire trail. Nevertheless, it didn't stop us to enjoy the first of the four falls.

A curtain of water. Photo taken on one the small caves on the walls of Asul na Talon Falls.

After fifteen minutes, we continued our hike to the next destination - Kabagan Falls. The trail to this falls is the most difficult part of the trail, I would say since the falls is relatively new, opened to the public around January this year. The word kabagan actually refers to the river and cave that houses the falls so to get there, one should set foot on the cave first.

First time to see a centipede as big as this.

We reached Kabagan Cave after thirty minutes. One might notice a waterfall near the entrance of the cave but contrary to what many believes, our guide told us that this is not the Kabagan Falls yet. However, this is considered as a part of the Kabagan river-fall system.

Ivy and Louie taking a quick dip before going to the cave.

Kabagan Falls can only be seen upon entering the cave.

The entrance to the Kabagan Cave.

Blurred shot of the Kabagan Falls.

Extreme precaution is required since the cave houses several bats and the rocks are very slippery. Headlights are also required before entering the cave. One can also take a dip on the basin inside the cave but the water is really cold so better be prepared for it.

We then headed our way to our third destination - Hagdang Bato Falls. This is the most known falls on the vicinity. It took us an hour and a half until we reached Hagdang Bato Falls.

Laddered waterfalls. Water cascading through rocks.

As the name suggests, Hagdang Bato Falls is a waterfall cascading through rocks of different elevation, resembling a staircase. The water from this falls comes from a source different from that of Asul na Talon and Kabagan Falls. The current on this falls is very strong that one should really hold on to rocks to avoid being caught by the flowing water. The entire falls is wide and there are a lot of basins where you can take a dip and refresh yourself.

My buddies enjoying the gushing water of Hagdang Bato Falls.

Another curtain of water on the background. Signature chinito smile at Hagdang Bato Falls.

After enjoying the waters of Hagdang Bato Falls for thirty minutes, we set ourselves to the last part of the hike - Tulay na Bato Falls. It took us another thirty minutes to reach the waterfalls.

Stones and falls. The remnants of the former bridge can still be observed.

As the name suggests, there used to be a stone bridge in the falls, the remnants which can be seen until now. According to our guide, the stone bridge was built during the Japanese period. The purpose of the bridge is not yet clear; however, the bridge was destroyed by a typhoon. Along the trail to Tulay na Bato Falls, our guide pointed out a huge rock that according to him was a part of the bridge before.

The basin of this falls is large and is also deep, however, canyoneering is not advisable as per our guides.

Another limatik casualty.

After fifteen minutes, we headed our way back to the registration booth, marking the end of the hike. We took a bath at the booth and after settling our registration fees, we rode a jeep back to Siniloan to buy yema cakes and had our post climb dinner.

ITINERARY

SPECIAL NOTES
Transportation: To go to Siniloan, you can ride a bus going to Infanta at Raymond Bus Terminal in Legarda, Manila. First trip leaves at around 2 AM, with hourly trip intervals. Similarly, if coming from Laguna, Batangas, or Quezon, it is advisable to go to Sta. Cruz or Lucena and ride jeeps and buses going to Infanta. Drop off at Kilometer 19 or Trekker's Station. Fare from Manila to Kilometer 19 costs around Php 131 as of March 2016. 

For private transportation, drive along Marcos Highway. take the road to Siniloan, either traversing the Marcos Highway or Manila South Road. Upon reaching Siniloan, drive through the road that leads to Infanta.

Registration, guides and fees. The barangay hall strictl impose a no guide, no hike policy. Registration and environmental fees cost Php 30 per person. Guide fee depends on the number of falls to be visited - Php 600 per group of five if you intend to visit four falls. The guide fees are fixed.

Hiking and camping notes:

1. The whole trail is infested with limatik or leeches. Prepare accordingly.
2. The trail is muddy and slippery even on a sunny day. Several river crossings will be encountered on the trail.
3. Cellphone signal is very weak across the whole trail.
4. Hiking during rainy season is discouraged as the river can swell and might be impassable.
5. Several water sources are available throughout the trail.

Estimated budget: Php 500 - Php 700

Overall rating of the hike: 8/10. Mostly because the falls are relatively unexplored and untouched.

Credits to Ivy Cadalzo and Louie Bedes for the photos.

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Hiking Chronicles: Mt. Ulap

Mt. Ulap Traverse(1846+ MASL)
Jumpoff: Brgy. Ampucao, Itogon, Benguet
Exit Point: Brgy. Sta. Fe, Itogon, Benguet
Mountain specs: Difficulty level 3/9 | Minor climb | Trail class 1-4

FACTS ON MT. ULAP
Mt. Ulap is a relatively new hiking destination in the north. Though hiking activities are present since 2008, the mountain officially opened itself to the public just last October 2015. Mt. Ulap is called such literally because of the clouds. According to the locals, clouds start to migrate to the summit of Ulap every afternoon.

A lot of posts identify two trails leading to the summit of Mt. Ulap; however, the municipality of Ampacao clarified that only the Ampucao-Sta. Fe trail exists and is allowed for hiking.

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Last December 29, I decided to do my annual year-end hike at Mt. Ulap. Luckily, two of my hiking buddies, Kim and Ivy, joined me on my first escapade to the north. Yay! Even the hike wasn't that much planned, we still chose to pursue the hike.

We met at Victory Liner Cubao at around 10 PM and rode a bus bound to Baguio. The bus left the terminal at around 11:45 PM and arrived at Baguio City at around 6:00 AM. Upon arriving, we rode a taxi to bring us to Petron Harrison Road, where jeepneys to Philex Ridge can be found.

Touchdown Baguio. With the girls on our way to Mt. Ulap.

The first trip of jeepneys bound to Brgy. Ampacao leaves at 6:00 AM. However, since we're a little late, we took the next trip that leaves at 8:00 AM. The trip itself was refreshing and majestic with unlimited sights of the Cordillera mountains. We reached Brgy. Ampacao at 8:30, proceeded to the barangay hall. Due to the recent influx of hikers, the barangay implemented a no guide, no hike policy. Registration and environmental fees cost Php 100 per person, guide fees are fixed at Php 400 per day, maximum of ten persons per guide. Since it was Christmas break for most of the students, the barangay officials allowed them to serve as guides until the school resumes.

A welcoming signage in Mt. Ulap, revealing the regions of Mt. Ulap.

We started the hike at around 9:00 AM. The trek to the summit is divided into five stations, each of which has features unique for each station. The trail starts at Totombek, an uphill woodland region of Ulap. It is a thirty-minute continuous assault trail and one may start experiencing shortness of breath due to altitude. It's pretty much manageable though, and one would be welcomed by several pine trees and panoramic views of the Cordillera mountain along the trail.

On the trails of Totombek. 

Hello, pine trees! Stepping on one of the rock formations seen along Totombek.

The trail continues until it leads to Ambanao Paoay. According to locals, the word ambanao paoay means a bare piece of land with no trees attributed to the apparent grassy character of the region.

To the grasslands of Ambanao Paoay.

Cattles are of usual sight in this part of the mountain. One of the highlights of this part of the trail is the man-made rock tower installed by hikers on an region overlooking the mountains of Cordillera. According to the locals, the tradition of piling rocks emerged with the belief that the higher the tower is, the nearer you get to the keepers of the mountains, making your wishes come true. Though the same practice remains until today, these rocks have been one of the famous sights of Mt. Ulap.

Rocks, clouds and mountains.

Now we can say that this selfie of my friend truly rocks. Yay!

After Ambanao Paoay, the trail commences with one-hour walk to Gungal Rock Formation, the rock formation that made the mountain famous for its picture perfect shots. Along the way, there are rocks similar to Gungal, though much smaller, are also picture-perfect.

Reaching new heights. Taking alternatives. One of the most breathtaking shots taken in Mt. Ulap.

Locals say that Gungal Rock Formation was an aftermath of the collapse of once a tall rock statue because of an earthquake. Extra precautions are needed when assaulting the rock formation as it is steep and can really be slippery.

At the Gungal Rock Formation with my hiking friends.

Got cotton candies on the background. Braving myself to stand at the edge of this majestic rock formation.

From Gungal, the summit can be achieved in an hour or less. The trail, though majority of which are assault, is gradual. From here, since the altitude gets higher, the sights become more remarkable. One will be rewarded by the panoramic views of Benguet and La Union, extending to Pangasinan, Tarlac, Nueva Vizcaya and Aurora, with sights of Mt. Ugo, Mt. Sto. Tomas, Mt. Cabuyao, Mt. Timbak, Mt. Tabayoc and Mt. Pulag from the summit. We arrived at the summit at 12:00PM.

Final assault to the summit.

Playful clouds on the background. Conquered Mt. Ulap!

From the summit, one can see how clouds start to play along the peaks of Mt. Ulap. We stayed for an hour before traversing to Sta. Fe. We actually witnessed how clouds travel to the summit at exactly 1PM. It was Mt. Ulap after all. From the summit, one can actually opt to backtrack the previous trail but a traverse trail will lead you to another destination in the mountain, the Pong-Ol Burial Caves. The descent trail is steep and continuous, but trail supports are installed. The burial caves can be accessed through a different trail and extra precaution is required as the trail is loose and slippery. There are three burial cave sites on the trail, each of which has legends and stories that are yet to be discovered. Though the identity and estimated age of those buried on the caves are still unknown, the locals believe that the mountain has more burial sites that are yet to be explored as well. We actually advise the guide to ask the elderly of the folklores about the mountain to enrich the culture of the mountain and share it as well to the hikers. Barangay protocol prohibits hikers from photographs of the burial caves and sites, which of course, we followed; however, some of the hikers seem to not understand and still took photos of the sacred artifacts of Mt. Ulap. Again, as I always emphasize, we always need to show respect not only to the people but to the protocols set by the officials. It is their way to preserve what they have and as visitors of the mountain, we should do our part in protecting these hidden treasures as well.

The trail ends in a hanging bridge to the community of Sta. Fe, where one can take a bath before proceeding to Baguio. From Baguio, one can opt to explore the city's rich night life and ride a bus bound to Manila afterwards, or go to Vigan or La Union for a side trip.

ITINERARY

Mt. Ulap (Ampucao-Sta. Fe Traverse) Dayhike
Day 0
10:00 PM	Assembly at Victory Liner Cubao. Take bus bound to Baguio City.
Day 1
06:00 AM	Arrival at Baguio City. Proceed to Petron Harrison.
06:15 AM	Take jeep bound to Philex Ridge.
07:00 AM	Arrival at Brgy. Ampucao. Proceed to barangay hall.
07:15 AM	Register at barangay hall. Secure guides.
07:30 AM	Proceed to jumpoff. Start trek.
08:30 AM	ETA Totombek.
09:30 AM	ETA Ambanao Paoay.
11:00 AM	ETA Gungal Rock Formation.
12:00 PM	Arrival at Mt. Ulap summit. Lunch. Explore area and viewpoints.
01:00 PM	Start descent to Brgy. Sta. Fe
02:15 PM	ETD Pong-ol Burial Caves
04:00 PM	ETA Brgy. Sta. Fe. Tidy up.
05:00 PM	ETD Brgy. Sta. Fe.
05:30 PM	ETA Baguio City. Explore area for side trip.
10:00 PM	Take bus bound to Manila
Day 2
04:00 AM	ETA Manila

SPECIAL NOTES
Transportation: Baguio City is accessible via public or private transportation; however, Brgy. Ampucao can only be accessed through jeepneys going to Philex Ridge. Bus fare going to Baguio City costs Php 455 as of 2016, while jeepney fare to Brgy. Ampucao costs Php 50. Based from experience, Philex Ridge-bound jeepneys only leave their terminal at Petron Harrison once the jeep is or almost full.

During peak season of hiking in Mt. Ulap, jeepneys and FX bound to Baguio wait at the exit point at Brgy. Sta. Fe. Though jeepneys coming from Philex Ridge or Ampucao passes through Brgy. Sta. Fe, they can really be seldom and arriving late at the exit point can be a problem. Usually, the last trip of jeepney passing though Sta. Fe arrives at 06:00 PM.

Registration, guides and porters: Individual environmental fee of Php 100 is collected at the barangay hall. Guide fees are fixed at Php 400 per day for a maximum of ten persons. Porter fees follow the same rate. Upon finishing the traverse, an additional Php 20 is collected in Brgy. Sta. Fe. The officials of Brgy. Ampucao strictly implements a no guide, no hike policy.

Hiking and camping notes:

1. Cellular signals are sporadic along the trail.
2. Do not be deceived by the cold weather. Majority of the trail is exposed to sun. Wear proper clothing and apply sunblock to protect yourself from ultraviolet rays.
3. Do not attempt to climb Mt. Ulap when raining. Trail can be muddy and slippery. The weather in the mountain can also be unbearable during the rainy season.
4. Camping sites are available in Mt. Ulap, specifically at the summit and at Ambanao Paoay.
5. Remember that the locals consider Mt. Ulap as one of their sacred grounds. Observe proper LNT principles.
6. Do not attempt to take photographs of the burial caves as it is prohibited by the local officials. Observe silence especially when passing through these sites as a sign of respect.
7. There are no water sources along the trail.
8. Altitude sickness and shortness of breathing may be experienced while hiking Mt. Ulap. Prepare accordingly.

Estimated budget: Php 1000 - Php 1500

Credits to Ivy Cadalzo and Kimberly Aspa for the photos.

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